Category: Garden To-Do’s

The best time to prepare a garden for a hot, dry summer is before the plants begin to struggle.

In early August, the Bureau of Meteorology confirmed that El Niño was firmly established and continuing to strengthen. Oceanic and atmospheric indicators were consistent with a strong event, with further intensification likely through spring and a peak expected in late spring or summer. The Bureau’s latest long-range forecast also indicates above-average temperatures across much of Australia, with below-average spring rainfall likely across parts of the south and east.

That does not make the season entirely predictable. The Bureau cautions that a strong El Niño signal does not necessarily produce equally strong local effects, and ENSO is only one of several influences on Australia’s climate. For a Sydney gardener, the useful response is preparation rather than panic: improve the way the garden holds and receives water now, then adjust care as the weather unfolds.

1. Check the irrigation before the first hot spell

Do not wait for a week of extreme heat to discover a split line, flat controller battery or blocked dripper.

Run every irrigation zone and walk through the garden while it operates. Look for dry gaps, leaks, damaged tubes, blocked emitters and sprays landing on paving or walls. Check that plants with very different needs are not being watered on the same program.

Growing Rooms installs a rain sensor with every irrigation system, so scheduled watering is suspended when useful rain arrives. We use Hunter NODE-BT Bluetooth controllers in many of our gardens, allowing clients to review and adjust the program from a nearby phone.

If you are deciding whether an automatic system is worthwhile, our guide to irrigation systems versus hand watering explains how zoning, drip delivery, programming and rain sensing affect water efficiency.

2. Find out what is happening below the surface

Soil can look damp at the surface while remaining dry around the roots. After watering, use a small trowel or soil probe to check how far the moisture has travelled. If the top few millimetres are wet but the soil below is dry, a quick daily sprinkle is not doing enough.

Water needs to soak into the root zone without running away across compacted soil. Where water pools or runs off, shorter irrigation cycles with pauses between them can help it absorb. Soil preparation and organic matter can also improve water-holding capacity, but additions should suit the existing soil and planting rather than being applied indiscriminately.

New planting, lawns and pots require closer observation because their roots have less access to stored moisture. Established drought-tolerant plants may need much less frequent support.

3. Top up mulch before the weather becomes extreme

Mulch shades the soil, slows evaporation and helps reduce weed competition. It is one of the simplest ways to make irrigation more effective.

Top up thin or bare areas in spring, after removing weeds and watering dry soil. Spread mulch evenly rather than piling it deeply against trunks, crowns or plant stems, where retained moisture can cause problems.

Different gardens call for different materials. An organic mulch can suit informal and densely planted beds, while gravel may be appropriate for some dry, architectural planting. The important consideration is how it behaves on the site: very fine mulch can wash down a slope, while thick, matted layers may prevent water from reaching the soil.

4. Decide which plants need priority

During dry weather, watering every part of a garden equally is rarely the best use of water.

Give priority to:

• recently planted trees, shrubs and groundcovers
• pots and raised planters, which dry faster than garden beds
• plants exposed to hot western sun and reflected heat
• areas beneath eaves that miss light rainfall
• valuable established trees showing genuine moisture stress

Mature, well-established plants suited to the site may need less intervention. Grouping plants with similar water requirements makes this judgement easier and prevents drought-tolerant planting from being overwatered simply because it shares a zone with thirstier species.

5. Protect pots and sensitive planting from radiant heat

A plant may be exposed to more than the air temperature. Masonry walls, dark fences, paving and pool surrounds can store and reflect heat long after the sun has moved.

Move portable pots out of severe afternoon sun before a heatwave, or group them where they receive some shelter. Check that containers drain freely and consider whether a larger pot would provide a more stable volume of soil around the roots.

For newly installed or vulnerable plants, temporary shade cloth can reduce stress during an exceptional hot spell. Position it so air can move around the foliage and remove it once conditions ease. This is short-term protection, not a substitute for selecting plants suited to the position.

6. Help plants establish deeper roots

Frequent light watering encourages roots to remain close to the surface, where the soil heats and dries quickly. A slower, more thorough watering generally supports deeper rooting and creates a more resilient plant.

The right frequency will vary with soil, slope, plant type and weather. Check the soil rather than relying on a universal timetable. A newly planted garden still needs regular establishment watering, even when the plants are considered drought tolerant once mature.

Avoid heavy pruning during extreme heat unless damaged growth creates a safety issue. A plant with a healthy canopy can shade its own stems and root zone. Schedule substantial pruning and planting for milder conditions wherever possible.

7. Be realistic about the lawn

A lawn is often the thirstiest part of a residential garden. Before summer, check irrigation coverage, aerate compacted areas where appropriate and address soil conditions so water can reach the roots.

Raise the mower height as the weather warms. Slightly longer grass shades the soil and supports deeper roots. Avoid removing too much leaf in one cut, particularly during hot or dry weather.

It may also be sensible to accept a lawn that is less intensely green through a difficult summer. Trying to maintain a lush spring appearance through every heatwave can consume large amounts of water. Focus on keeping the lawn healthy enough to recover rather than forcing constant soft growth.

8. Adjust the plan as the season changes

An irrigation controller should not run the same program in September, January and May. Review the schedule after rain, during cool changes and as plants establish.

Continue to inspect the garden between programmed cycles. Wilting does not always mean a plant needs more water; root damage, poor drainage and excess watering can create similar symptoms. Check the soil before increasing the program.

Sydney Water’s Water Wise Guidelines apply throughout the year. At the time of writing, gardens may be watered with drinking water before 10 am or after 4 pm. Drip irrigation and smart watering systems may also be used between 10 am and 4 pm, and water must not be allowed to run onto hard surfaces.

A resilient garden begins with its design

The strongest protection against a hot, dry summer is a garden designed for its site. Suitable plants, healthy soil, useful shade, layered planting, sensible lawn areas and well-planned irrigation all reduce the amount of emergency care required later.

Preparation does not mean turning every garden into a dry landscape. It means matching water use to the plants and conditions, then creating a system that can be adjusted intelligently as the season changes.

If you would like help preparing an existing garden or planning a more resilient new landscape, speak with the Growing Rooms team. We can review planting, soil, irrigation and maintenance together so the whole garden is ready for the warmer months.

Spring brings longer days, warmer soil and a burst of new growth to Sydney gardens. It is also the ideal time to deal with the effects of winter and prepare the garden for the hotter months ahead.

The best spring maintenance is not a frantic clean-up completed in one weekend. It is a considered reset: assessing what the garden needs, supporting healthy new growth and making sure its soil, lawn and irrigation are ready for summer.

Here is where we recommend starting.

1. Begin with a garden health check

Walk through the garden before reaching for the tools. Look for:

• waterlogged or compacted areas
• broken, dead or damaged branches
• plants that have outgrown paths, windows or other plants
• early signs of pests or disease
• weeds that are about to flower or set seed
• bare lawn areas and worn edges
• leaking irrigation, blocked drippers or uneven watering
• mulch that has broken down or moved away from the soil

This first inspection helps separate what genuinely needs attention from work that can wait. It is particularly important after a wet winter, when drainage problems and stressed plants can become more obvious.

2. Prune selectively, not automatically

Spring is a good time to remove dead or damaged growth, lightly shape many hedges and clear spent foliage from ornamental grasses and strappy plants. Selective pruning improves airflow, keeps paths usable and allows fresh growth to become the focus.

However, not every plant should be cut back at the same time. Spring-flowering shrubs are generally best pruned after flowering, and some plants respond poorly to hard pruning into old wood. The right approach depends on the species, its flowering cycle and the role it plays in the design.

Spring pruning should support the plant’s natural form and flowering cycle. Kensington project.

3. Weed before spring growth accelerates

Small weeds are much easier to manage before warmer weather sends them into rapid growth. Remove them before they flower and seed, taking care around the roots of established plants.

Once the beds are clear, check whether groundcovers and layered planting can be strengthened to shade exposed soil. A well-planted garden will not eliminate maintenance, but it can reduce open space where weeds establish.

4. Improve the soil and feed where needed

Healthy spring growth begins below ground. Top-dressing garden beds with quality compost or organic matter can improve soil structure, water retention and biological activity without unnecessarily disturbing established roots.

Fertiliser should be matched to the plants and the condition of the soil rather than applied as a one-size-fits-all treatment. Many Australian natives, including grevilleas and banksias, are sensitive to high phosphorus, so use a suitable low-phosphorus product where required. Waverley Council’s guide to starting a native garden is a useful local reference.

Apply fertiliser at the recommended rate and water it in well. More is not better.

5. Refresh the mulch

Mulch is one of the most effective ways to help a garden through warmer weather. It slows evaporation, moderates soil temperature, protects soil structure and helps suppress new weeds.

The right product depends on the planting, the area being mulched and whether an organic or inorganic finish is appropriate. ANL’s practical guide, What Mulch Is Right for My Garden?, explains the main options and where they work best.

Before topping it up, make sure water can still reach the soil beneath. Apply an even layer rather than building a thick barrier, and keep mulch clear of trunks, stems and plant crowns to reduce the risk of rot.

An even mulch layer protects exposed soil while keeping plant stems and crowns clear. Cronulla project.

6. Wake the lawn up carefully

As the lawn returns to active growth, spring maintenance may include:

• mowing and redefining edges
• aerating areas that are genuinely compacted
• removing excessive thatch where it is preventing water penetration
• lightly top-dressing uneven or tired areas
• repairing bare patches
• applying a lawn-specific fertiliser once active growth has begun

Avoid aggressive renovation while the grass is still dormant. Lawn type, shade, drainage and soil condition should guide the timing and treatment. Maintaining a slightly higher mowing height as the weather warms can also help shade the soil and support deeper roots.

A healthy lawn benefits from maintenance timed to its active spring growth. Hunters Hill project.

7. Test and adjust the irrigation system

Do not wait for the first hot week to discover that a dripper is blocked or a garden zone is not receiving enough water. Run each irrigation zone and check:

• filters and drippers are clean
• lines are intact and not leaking
• sprays are reaching plants rather than paving
• garden beds, lawns and pots are programmed as separate zones where possible
• run times suit the soil, planting and season
• the controller and rain sensor are working correctly

Growing Rooms always installs a rain sensor with its irrigation systems. When there has been sufficient rain, the sensor prevents unnecessary watering so the system only runs when irrigation is still required. We use Hunter NODE-BT Bluetooth controllers, which allow clients to monitor and adjust their irrigation from their phone when the season or garden conditions change.

Sydney Water notes that automatic irrigation can be efficient when it is well designed, programmed and maintained, with separate zones and weather-responsive controls. Its garden watering systems guide is a helpful overview.

For more detail, read Is an Irrigation System More Water-Efficient Than Hand Watering?.

8. Plant while conditions are mild

Early spring can be a useful planting window, particularly where the soil is warming but extreme heat has not yet arrived. Choose plants for the actual light, soil, drainage and space available rather than appearance alone.

New planting still needs consistent establishment watering. Grouping plants with similar water needs makes future irrigation more efficient and helps the garden perform as a coherent whole.

9. Check decks, paving and outdoor areas

Sweep and inspect decks, paving, steps, retaining walls and garden edging before the main outdoor-entertaining season. Look for slippery surfaces, failed joints, movement, drainage issues or timber finishes that need attention.

Cleaning or restoration should suit the material. Overly aggressive pressure cleaning can damage timber, stone and grout, so use the appropriate method or bring in a professional where required.

10. Prepare now for summer

Spring maintenance should make the garden more resilient, not simply tidier. Prioritise healthy soil, appropriate mulch, efficient irrigation and plants suited to their position. These measures help reduce heat stress and make better use of water when conditions become hotter and drier.

You can also read our guide to preparing your garden for an El Niño summer.

A simple spring checklist

• Inspect drainage, plant health and irrigation
• Remove weeds before they seed
• Prune according to plant type and flowering time
• Add compost and plant-appropriate fertiliser where needed
• Refresh mulch without burying stems or trunks
• Renovate lawns only after active growth begins
• Test every irrigation zone and the rain sensor
• Complete new planting before the hottest weather
• Inspect decks, paving and outdoor entertaining areas

Keep your garden performing at its best

Every garden responds differently to the changing season. Growing Rooms provides tailored, ongoing garden maintenance for prestige homes across Sydney, including pruning, lawn care, soil improvement, mulching, irrigation checks, planting, pest and disease management, and deck or paving restoration.

Contact the Growing Rooms team to discuss a seasonal visit or an ongoing maintenance program for your garden.

When a Sydney summer becomes hot and dry, it is tempting to reach for the hose every evening. Hand watering feels attentive, but it can be surprisingly difficult to judge how much water has reached the roots—or whether every part of the garden has received the right amount.

A well-designed irrigation system can usually water an established garden more consistently and efficiently than routine hand watering. The important words are well designed. Automatic irrigation is not inherently water-efficient. Its performance depends on how the garden is zoned, where the water is delivered, how the controller is programmed and whether the system is maintained.

The best approach is not necessarily irrigation or hand watering. Automatic irrigation can take care of regular root-zone watering, while a garden lover still observes the plants and uses a hose or watering can when an individual pot or newly planted area needs extra attention.

Why hand watering can be inconsistent

Hand watering is useful because it puts you in the garden. You can spot a dry pot, wilting foliage, pests or a blocked drain while you work. It is ideal for containers, recently installed plants and small areas that need individual attention.

However, it is easy to move the hose on before water has penetrated deeply into the soil. A quick sprinkle may wet the surface while leaving the root zone dry. It is also difficult to give every plant a consistent amount, particularly in a large or layered garden.

Water applied from above can land on foliage, paving and walls rather than where the plant can use it. Watering in the heat of the day also increases evaporation. Over time, the most convenient areas may receive plenty of water while less accessible corners are repeatedly missed.

What makes an irrigation system water-efficient?

An efficient system begins with the garden design rather than the controller. Sydney Water notes that automatic systems can be efficient, but poorly designed, programmed or maintained systems can use more water than a garden needs.

Several elements need to work together.

Separate plants into suitable watering zones

A sunny lawn, a shaded garden bed and a group of pots do not have the same water requirements. They should not all run for the same length of time.

We divide a garden into zones—or hydrozones—so plants with similar needs are watered together. Each zone can then have a program suited to its planting, soil, exposure and method of water delivery. This avoids overwatering drought-tolerant plants simply to keep a thirstier area alive.

Deliver water to the root zone

Drip irrigation is often the most efficient choice for garden beds. It applies water slowly and close to the soil, reducing overspray onto paths and limiting the amount lost to evaporation.

The slow delivery also gives water time to soak into the root zone. On sloping sites or compacted soil, shorter repeated cycles can help water absorb rather than run downhill. Sprays still have a role in some lawns and larger areas, but their position and coverage need to be checked carefully.

Program for the garden—not the calendar

An irrigation program should change with the seasons. A garden may need more support during establishment and hot weather, then considerably less once its roots are established or temperatures fall.

Run time also depends on soil. Sandy soil drains quickly, while heavier soil absorbs water more slowly and may need shorter cycles with pauses between them. The aim is thorough, less frequent watering that supports deeper roots, not constant superficial watering.

Stop unnecessary watering after rain

Growing Rooms installs a rain sensor with every irrigation system. When the sensor detects rain, it suspends the automatic watering program. The system resumes once the sensor has dried or the programmed delay has ended, helping prevent a scheduled cycle from running during or immediately after useful rainfall.

It is a simple feature, but an important one. A controller can follow its timetable perfectly without knowing that a storm has just passed. The rain sensor gives the system the information it needs to avoid that obvious waste.

A rain sensor responds to rainfall rather than measuring moisture at every plant root, so observation still matters. After scattered showers, for example, pots beneath an eave may remain dry even though the rest of the garden received rain.

The system we use in Growing Rooms gardens

We use Hunter NODE-BT battery-operated Bluetooth controllers in many of our irrigation installations. Because the controller does not need a mains power connection, it can be a practical and discreet option for residential landscapes.

The Hunter app allows the client to use a nearby phone to review programs, start or stop a station and make seasonal adjustments when required. It is local Bluetooth control—not remote access from anywhere—and Hunter lists a maximum connection distance of approximately 15 metres under ideal conditions.

For many clients, phone access is much simpler than working through buttons on a controller hidden inside a valve box. It also makes it easier to reduce watering after a cool change, add support during a hot spell or test an individual zone while inspecting the garden.

The brand is only part of the result. The real efficiency comes from correctly arranged zones, suitable emitters, sensible programming, a rain sensor and ongoing adjustment as the garden matures.

We source our irrigation components through Reece, whose garden and irrigation range includes Hunter controllers and related equipment.

Is automatic irrigation better for plants?

Consistency is one of its greatest benefits. New gardens need reliable watering while roots establish, and a missed week during hot weather can undo months of progress. A programmed system gives each zone regular support even when the household is busy or away.

Root-zone delivery also helps keep unnecessary moisture off leaves and flowers. This can reduce marking on sensitive foliage and makes more of the applied water available to the plant.

Automatic does not mean “set and forget”. Plants communicate through their growth, foliage and soil condition. A system should be checked and adjusted rather than allowed to run unchanged for years.

When hand watering is still the right choice

Keep the hose or watering can for:

• pots and planters that dry at different rates
• individual new or transplanted plants
• areas sheltered from rainfall
• plants showing stress during an exceptional hot spell
• checking how quickly water is soaking into the soil
• rinsing and testing while an irrigation fault is repaired

Hand watering is most useful when it is targeted. It complements an efficient irrigation system rather than duplicating the entire scheduled program.

A simple irrigation maintenance check

At the beginning of spring and before extended hot weather:

• run every zone and look for leaks, blocked drippers and damaged lines
• check that sprays are not watering paving, fences or buildings
• clear soil and mulch away from buried or blocked emitters
• confirm that each zone still matches the planting it serves
• test the rain sensor
• check the controller battery and review the program
• reduce or increase seasonal settings as conditions change

Sydney Water's Water Wise Guidelines apply throughout the year. At the time of writing, gardens may be watered with drinking water before 10 am or after 4 pm, while drip irrigation and smart watering systems may also be used between 10 am and 4 pm. Water should never be allowed to run onto paths or roads.

Designing irrigation as part of the garden

The best time to plan irrigation is while the landscape is being designed. Garden beds, lawns, pots, levels and planting zones can then be considered together, with lines installed before access becomes difficult.

For an existing garden, an irrigation audit can still make a substantial difference. Correcting a leaking line, separating an unsuitable zone or adjusting an old program may save water and improve plant health without replacing the entire system.

If you are planning a new Sydney garden or would like help reviewing an existing watering system, speak with the Growing Rooms team. We can integrate planting, soil preparation and irrigation so they work as one landscape rather than as separate afterthoughts.

While summer is undoubtedly a much-loved season in Australia with everyone enjoying their outdoors, it can wreak havoc on your garden. Dry winds, long days and high temperatures can quickly turn your vibrant verdant oasis into a brown and brittle mess. Good preparation will help your garden survive the harsh summer weather and allow you more time to enjoy it throughout the coming months.

Growing Rooms Landscapes and Pools has put together the 10 Most Important Summer Gardening Jobs for you to do. These are simple solutions to keep your outdoor space green, healthy and inviting.

Mowing is important to keep your lawn healthy and supporting growth. However, avoid mowing your lawns too short in summer summer or long dry periods. This will help keep your lawns looking green rather than brown and bare. More tips on How To Drought Proof Your Lawn This Summer

Give your plants a light prune to tidy up and to keep your garden from turning into a jungle. Trim the hedges, shape the topiaries and remove the lower limbs of trees and shrubs. Invariably, people don’t prune deep enough, so go a little further than what you think is needed. De-head any flowers that are looking a little tired to promote continued flowering throughout the season.
Don’t forget your pot plants either. They are vulnerable to overheating as they can quickly dry out. Smaller pots can be placed in a bucket of water and left to soak for a few hours. A light mulch will help keep your plants cool as well as moving them out of the direction of the hot sun.

Mulching your soil is the easiest way you can protect your plants from the summer heat. Mulching helps keep the soil cool, conserves water and limits any fertiliser from being washed away by the summer rains. To maximise the potential of your mulch, make sure your soil is moist and light by giving it a good turn with a fork. This will help create air and insulate your plant roots.
Check out this short Guide to Mulch for more tips and tricks on how to mulch the garden.

The only way to stop your garden from drying out during the hot season is with regular watering. Consider installing a water tank for this purpose! Water tanks come in a range of sizes and shapes, and can even be fitted under decks, patios or balconies to hide them from view. To avoid mildew and the plants stewing, water early in the day when it’s cool. This will also help reduce the risks of fungi attacking the foliage. In the early mornings, the soil is most receptive and the water will easily reach the root systems. Depending on the weather, you may also need to give your plants a light spray in the early evening too.
Adding fertiliser, feed and minerals to the water makes watering serve a double-duty.

To keep your pool healthy, regular maintenance is a necessity. Make up a checklist of all the tasks that need to be performed regularly to maintain your pool, so that none of the essentials are forgotten. Check the filter system and clean the filter every week. Regularly empty the skimmer boxes and remove leaves. Also, make sure the water chemistry is balanced and check pH.
A sleek glass fence adds visual impact to your pool area, so make sure it’s spotless. Simply use warm water, liquid soap and a sponge to wash it down, then rinse the glass off with a quick hose-down.
For after-dark ambiance, energy-efficient LED lighting can be fixed above and below the waterline. Make sure all of your bulbs are working for the perfect night-time illumination.

Timber decks will naturally start to turn grey over time due to the effects of sun, rain and wind. To keep your deck looking rich and warm, it needs to be oiled regularly. Start by cleaning, scrubbing and lightly sanding the timber. Ensure it’s completely dry then apply oil evenly along the grain with a brush. Allow at least four hours to dry (better: 24 hours!) then give a second coat.

Over time, pavers can start to look decidedly unclean. Rain, dirt and mold can turn beautiful surfaces black and splotchy, particularly those pavers around the pool. Fire up the Gerni gun to refresh the brickwork and make them look new. It’s also a good opportunity to remove weeds from between the paver stones.

Dining and entertaining alfresco are some of the greatest joys allowed by the Australian summer. But it’s important to keep yourself, your family and your guests cool and safe from overexposure to the sun while you’re enjoying the iconic backyard barbecue. Shade – whether it be umbrellas, screens, sails, or canopies – is essential during the hottest part of the year. Not only will it allow you to enjoy the outside areas for longer, but it protects the skin from harmful UV radiation, too. Clean your shade and make sure, everything is intact and fixed correctly.

Make sure all exterior lighting is working. Whether you’re enjoying a barbecue, having a swim, relaxing in the cool evening air or letting the kids run around outside, a few quick fixes now will mean that you’ll get maximum enjoyment from your outdoor areas morning, noon and night throughout the summer months.Replace dead light globes and make sure the transformers are functioning for all 12-volt lighting. Install solar lights if you want to add illumination to your garden but not go to the trouble of bringing in an electrician.
Lighting that’s too bright can be blinding, creates deep shadows and makes everyone looked washed out. The best option is to have a variety of lights, making them a little brighter at steps, doorways and along paths. Sitting and socialising areas should feature soft lighting to make the atmosphere warm and inviting.
A few strands of fairy lights will quickly make the garden look magical, delighting the kids (and adults!).
Check out more tips on lighting in our article Garden Trend: Outdoor Lightning

What would an Australian backyard be without a barbecue? Even apartment dwellers with a modest balcony can usually squeeze in a tripod model to cook up a sausage sizzle. Regular cleaning is part and parcel of owning a barbecue. Check out our guide on How to clean your BBQ.
If you cook outside a lot, it may be worth adding a small fridge to your barbecue area. It’s perfect for keeping meat at hand yet out of the sun – and for storing icy beverages for the chef.
Don’t forget to look after your outdoor furniture. Scrub wooden furniture at least once a year to get rid of any mold. Hint: hire a high-pressure water cleaner and you’ll get the job done in a fraction of the time. Wash the soft furnishings, such as seat and cushion covers.

You have more tips for your garden in Summer? We would love to hear them!

Garden Spring Clean-Up is Due: Suddenly spring is here and now is the perfect time to give your garden a nice clean up. The Growing Rooms Team has picked some key jobs for you to consider for a high impact spring garden.

1. Clean and oil timber decks
   Remove moss and mold with a stiff broom and a hose. To make the job easier, there are plenty of non-toxic mold removers now available that can be sprayed onto paving and decks, or you can make your own:

DIY: Prepare the wood deck treatment solution by mixing 3 quarts of water, 1 quart of oxygen bleach, and 1/4 cup of ammonia-free liquid dishwasher detergent. If you don’t have bleach, you can substitute vinegar. Vinegar acts like the bleach without the chemical composition.

Spray or pour the chemicals on the mildew infected areas. Allow the solution to sit for about 15 minutes. Thoroughly rinse all the residue off the deck once the chemicals have finished working their magic. If you still see any mildew present, repeat until you get results.
Treat the deck with an oil-based sealer, which will help keep your wooden deck in good shape for a long period of time.

1. Clean outdoor furniture
   Whether your outdoor furniture is made of wood or metal, it needs regular attention to avoid stains or rust. Remove mold and stains from wood using the selfmade treatment solution from above or a stiff wire brush to get rid of rust and loose paint on metal furniture. Don’t forget to oil or repaint your furniture for this nice refreshed look.

1. Get rid of weed
   The warm spring weather encourages weeds to germinate, so remove them while they’re small. It’s much, much harder to get rid of weeds if you let them mature, particularly if you wait until they flower and spread their seed around the garden. Mulching around young plants will not only help keep weeds and pests away but also retain moisture in the soil.

1. Clean up the water features
   Remove leaves and algae from ponds and refill with fresh water.
   Overgrown aquatic and marginal plants need to be divided and repotted every year or two just like other containerised plants. Lift baskets out and carefully remove plants before cutting clumps into smaller segments.
2. Trim and shape
   Trimming will help keep trees and shrubs nice and compact. Prune deciduous trees if they have outgrown their position, or if limbs are diseased and damaged. To create a pleasing shape when you are reducing the size of your trees, cut out just those branches that are too tall or wide.

1. Clean the BBQ
   Give your BBQ a good clean and making sure everything is in working order. If it’s looking a little worse for wear, it might be time to update – the latest ranges offer many options such as warming racks, wok burners and viewing windows. We’ve put together more tips on “How to clean your BBQ” in this article.

1. Don’t forget about the front garden
   Your front garden gives visitors their first impression of your house. Don’t forget to get rid of mold and moss here as well. Nice looking pots, planted or left empty, will add impact to the front porch.

1. Refresh built elements
   It’s amazing how a new coat of paint or stain gives new life to existing structures in the garden. Repainting or staining tired looking fences, walls, sheds and pergolas will give your whole garden an instant pick-me-up. Always clean surfaces thoroughly before re-staining or repainting, regardless of whether they are new or existing.

1. Shop new furniture and accessories
   If cleaning and repainting your furniture is no option have a look for the newest trends for your outdoor entertaining area. Stylish furniture with weather-resistant fabrics and decorative elements will bring personality to the space, simply follow a style with similar materials or colours for continuity as you would inside the home. Area rugs, solar lamps, trays and other eclectic pieces will add the extra bit of coziness you are looking for in your garden.

Winter is the best time to give your garden a good site check. Take some photographs to analyze your garden’s flaws and attractions. Use the rainy days to make decisions about new projects like water features, a new dock or pergola.

Don’t hesitate to get rid of unwanted features in your garden, especially if you have recently moved into a new property. You have the freedom to make it feel like home.

If you are planning to install new features like a terrace, pool or entertaining area, start them now. Then you can enjoy them when the blue skies and warm sunshine of spring are arriving.

Now is the best time to freshen up your outdoor furniture. As it is exposed to the elements, the furniture needs some maintenance at least once a year. Use a sunny winter’s day to wash down tables and chairs with soap and hot water, oil the hinges and check for broken fittings. Oil your wooden furniture. Touch cracks in painted metal furniture to avoid rust.

Check out the winter sales for outdoor furniture, barbecues and garden accessories. Also have a look in secondhand shops or online auction sites for interesting and unusual pieces, like planters, sculptures, and colourful pots to give your garden the little bit of an extra wow factor.

Clean your garden beds from old flowers and leaves from autumn-blooming perennials and remove plants that are not doing well. Weeds like to flourish between pavers and cracks in concrete. Dig them out now to save you a lot of work later in the season.

Give your plants new soil so they will be looking gorgeous when spring sun is enticing you to stay in your garden. Top up the mulches now to help retain moisture in the soil as weather warms up.

Pruning is most important if you want healthy, nicely shaped rose plants that produce abundant flowers. Always use clean and sharp tools to avoid damages and diseases. Feed your roses with a good rose fertilizer or mulch plants with well-rotted compost.

There is nothing more satisfying than harvest your own vegetables and herbs. Now is the time to plant broccoli, carrot, lettuce, beans, onion, beetroot, radish and pears and you will have plenty to eat in summer.

End of winter is a good time to sow seed and plant bulbs for flowering annuals like sweet peas, alyssum, calendula, pansy, lobelia, marigolds and zinnia, daylilies.

As summer wanes it’s time to prepare your garden for winter and the spring that follows. Autumn plays a surprisingly vital role in ensuring that you get the best outcomes and growth come spring. To keep your autumn garden vibrant and healthy you need to plan and take action now. Follow these 10 expert tips by Growing Rooms.

Transfer the leaves that fall on your autumn garden and lawn to the compost bin on a regular basis, otherwise they will smother your plants and grass. Rake leaves up and compost or use as a mulch in garden beds. Well-rotted leaf mould as it’s called is nutrient rich and extremely beneficial to garden soil.

Start planning for a stunning display of bulbs in spring with mass plantings of daffodils, dutch iris, hyacinth, lachenalia, ixia, muscari, ranunculi, Freesia, crocus, anemone, Babiana and tulips. Choose a spot with light, well-drained soil or plant in pots that can be moved out of sight after flowering. In warm areas, chill hyacinth and tulip bulbs in the fridge (about 8 weeks) before planting.
Soil preparation is an important part of autumn gardening, particularly when it comes to planting new plants that will be at their best in spring. For example, for bulbs that flower in spring, they’re planted in autumn and the best way to encourage healthy bulbs in spring is to prepare the soil when you’re planting in autumn. A few handfuls of fertiliser mixed into the planting area is an easy way to help prepare and enrich the soil.

Trim hedges before the onset of winter to keep them compact and bushy from ground level.
The thing about pruning is that it actually stimulates new growth. The reason it does that is because a chemical is contained in each terminal bud, or leader, and once you’ve removed that it allows the buds below to break. This means a much bushier plant. But don’t make the mistake of pruning back everything in the garden, because if you do you might miss spring blossoms. A Wisteria, for example, has already set its spring buds – look for the flowering spur and leave it because pruning that means missing its spring flush.

When it comes to pretty flowers for your pots and bare spots in your autumn garden and during late winter and spring, simply remember the three Ps – pansies, Primula and Polyanthus. Mix up with cineraria, calendula and other annuals. Sow seed now in trays or punnets or look out for seedlings at the garden centre.

Dig up and divide large clumps of perennials such as dahlias (pictured), cannas, daylilies, Dietes, Euphorbia, foxgloves, Hosta, peonies and red hot pokers. Lift them, then re-plant into well-conditioned soil. When planting in your autumn garden you can also mix in some fertiliser into the soil or planting hole. It not only improves and enriches the soil but will provide the new plants with gentle slow release nutrients as they establish and set them up for a fantastic spring growth flush.

Autumn is the time to feed the lawn. The reason is that the grass has slowed down with cold nights, but the roots are still growing well, so it’s a great time for repair because the soil is warm. Use a slow release lawn food to develop a strong root system and thicker grass. Autumn is also a good time to sew new lawn seeds. Before sowing seed, remove stones and difficult weeds such as dock and dandelion. You will end up with a lush green cover over winter.

Autumn is an ideal time to plant new trees or shrubs provided the soil is reasonably moist. Autumn garden planting has the benefit of allowing plants to have many months to establish before the hot weather arrives in summer. Make sure the planting spot isn’t on top of underground services such as sewerage drains or power cables. If unsure you should contact the service provider who can supply plans for your section.
To really see the best results with your plants, it’s important to prepare the soil properly. Add gypsum to clay soil to help improve its structure, and no matter your soil type you’ll need to regularly add organic matter. This might be manure (ensure it’s fully composted so that you don’t burn the roots), pelletised fertiliser or compost. This will add nutrients back into your soil and feed your soil microorganisms. It’s these microorganisms that do the hard work and will ensure that your soil structure has a good balance of water retention and drainage, and let plants thrive.

Take 10cm cuttings from hardwood herbs such as rosemary and bay or natives such as banksias, grevillea and coastal rosemary. Remove the lower leaves, dip cuttings into hormone powder and pot in small containers of premium potting mix. Keep just moist and shelter from strong wind and sun.

Some flowering perennials such as sedum and coneflower (Echinacea), grasses also, have lovely seed heads. Think about leaving those you like on the plant during winter to add interest to the garden. Rose growers recommend leaving some flowers on plants to set hips (red/orange berries). Rose hips not only look attractive but help maintain vigour.

Give your citrus trees a little late summer attention. Feed them now with a plant food that’s specially formulated for citrus – these formulas contain the full range of trace elements your plants need. Water well before and after application, spreading the fertiliser around the dripline area (the zone beneath the outer branches). Check for pests, too – spray bronze orange bugs with an insecticide such as Confidor, and treat aphids and scale insects with a horticultural oil.

What do you do to prepare your garden for winter? Let us know in the comment section below. We love to hear from you!

Want to make every day feel like a holiday? Spend plenty of time outside in a shady spot, with only the sound of native wildlife and the crash of a wave on a distant reef to distract you? With a few simple tricks this tropical feel is possible in any home, no matter how far away it is from the beach. Palms are a perfect way to recreate your favourite tropical destination. Big leaves of over-reaching plants will create a cocooning canopy and hug any seating area. Throw in some colourful flowers and foliage and before you know it, you’ll be drifting off to the Pacific isles.

Take a look at the elements of a tropical style and incorporate one or more into your garden.

To help you bring your exotic escape to life use plenty of timber. Australian hardwood timber is a durable and attractive flooring solution for outdoors. It requires minimal maintenance and lends a tropical feel to any outdoor room. Warm, natural brown hues also look stunning when paired with lush green foliage.
A blissful scenario can be created by simply setting up an outdoor living room on your deck or patio. Low-slung seating will set a casual tone for informal parties and gatherings, especially if teamed with a mix of floor pillows and chairs to lounge about on. If there is limited space, consider hanging a hammock under a swaying palm to create an instant holiday feeling. Use timber or cane-framed mirrors to amplify the light. If a mirror can reflect palm fronds and other foliage so much the better.
Water in any garden has magical visual and soothing auditory qualities but if you don’t have space for a pool and ocean views aren’t your reality, add a water feature surrounded by tropical gardens. The tranquil sound of trickling water is a soothing addition to any tropical abode.

The secret to creating a lush look is to use different-sized palms to create a three-tiered effect. For a tall palm, you can’t look past an Alexander or Bangalow.
Alexander palms are fast-growing natives, feature lush foliage and produce large creamy-white flowers and small red fruit in autumn. Bangalow palms are fast-growing natives as well, their shallow roots make it perfect for planting near pools. Hanging bunches of mauve flowers and fruit appear summer through to autumn.
Majestic palms are a happy medium with bright green symmetrical leaves and slightly swollen base.
Cascade palms are great for completing the lower parts of your tropical garden. This Mexican shade-loving palm is hardy and happy indoors and out. Perfect for under planting to fill out your tropical garden.

Extra Tip: They key to establishing lush, happy palms (especially in autumn and winter) is to keep their roots warm with layers of mulch and manure. Palms love organic matter, so for best results mulch with enriched cow manure, tea tree mulch or Organic Active 8 Soil Improver and Planting Mix. Fertilise fortnightly from spring to autumn. Use a liquid organic fertiliser. Bigger palms can be fed organic, slow-release fertiliser. Give any dead leaves a snip. Recycle the leaves by shredding them and use as mulch for your palms.

To really give your garden that tropical touch, mix it up with exotic, vibrant foliage and flowers, which will add bursts of colour and create contrast and drama. There are many colourful plants that love shade.

Cordylines are a tough plant that will enhance the tropical flavour of your garden. You’ll be tickled pink by the fuchsia shades of cordyline rubra and cordyline fruticosa ruby. Or for a splash of lime, try the cordyline fruticosa kiwi.
With their symmetrical foliage and multitude of colours, bromeliads make for fascinating plants. They don’t even have to be planted in the garden – they’re equally happy attached to tree trunks or in pots. Guzmania will give you a beautiful flower or if it’s wow-factor you want, plant the giant bromeliad, alcanterea.
If you’re looking for a colourful flowering plant for your tropical garden, clivia should be at the top of your list. Its orange trumpet flower will brighten your garden from late winter to early spring.
In spring, plant New Guinea impatiens or regular impatiens in your tropical garden. Their big flowers will give your tropical garden a pop of colour right through to autumn.

Heady perfumed flowers are an intrinsic element of subtropical gardens and can be extremely evocative. The sweet summer scent of the frangipani is unmistakeable and is an iconic symbol of tropical gardens around the world, including Australia.
Other popular scented flowering plants include gardenia, jasmine and ginger, but don’t just think flowers when considering scent in your garden. The leaves of plants, such as cardamom, lemon-scented myrtle, lavender and rosemary, are a fragrant treat when planted along pathways.

Check out our Portfolio to get more insights into our projects that are featured in the pictures above. Or leave us a comment below. We’d love to hear from you!

There’s nothing quite like fresh tomatoes from your very own garden. No matter how big or small your garden, with these great tips on how to grow tomatoes you are covered this season. We share this useful guide from Flower Power to encourage you to try to grow tomatoes.

Choose an open position for your tomatoes that receives at least six hours of full sun each day.
Tomatoes grow happily in most soils but, like all plants, a little time spent on their soil will go a long way to healthy plants and an abundance of fruit. If you have clay soil (like many areas of Sydney), it’s best to raise the planting area to help with drainage. Add compost to help with soil structure, Dolomite to prevent blossom end rot (calcium deficiency) and a Tomato and Vegetable Food around one week before you plant your tomatoes and water in well.
If you grew tomatoes last year, it’s best to choose a new spot for your plants this year to eliminate any risk of soil borne disease. Plants can be returned to the same location the following year – though the longer the better.
If you’re planning to plant in a pot, choose a good quality Tomato and Vegie growing mix to plant them into.

There are a huge number of varieties available, with differences in growing habit and the size, shape, taste, colour and acidity of fruit.

• Cherry Cocktail: This early maturing variety produces large clusters of sweet, bite-sized cocktail fruit.
• Grape: A very heavy yielding variety producing long clusters of sweet fruit.
• Lady Bug: A sweet cherry tomato producing lots of 10-cent piece sized fruit.
• Orange Pixie: A sweet tasting dwarf variety producing masses of large cherry tomatoes. Perfect for pots.
• Sugar Snack: A small, cherry sized fruit with a sweet full flavour.
• Sweet Bite: Smaller than traditional cherry varieties, this early maturing variety produces hundreds of juicy, bite-size fruit.
• Tiny Tim: Produces sweet cherry sized fruit on a dwarf bush – perfect for pots.
• Tommy Toe: Super sweet, bit- sized balls of fruit that produces hundreds of 50-cent piece sized tomatoes.

• Apollo: Produces high yields of full flavoured, round, red fruit early in the season.
• Big Bite: An extra-large, full flavoured beefsteak type tomato.
• Black Krim: An heirloom Russian variety from the 19th century with a full flavoured, slightly flattened fruit.
• Grosse Lisse: Medium to large deep red fruit mid to late in the season.
• Health Kick: A delicious plum variety containing 55% more antioxidants.
• Oxheart: Originating in Hungary, this old-fashioned favourite has fine, feathery foliage and heart-shaped pink fruit with meaty flesh. An heirloom variety perfect for sandwiches.
• Patio Supreme: Early to mature with full flavoured bright red, flat fruit on a compact, dwarf bush – perfect for pots.
• Roma: Rich red medium to large egg-shaped, full flavoured fruit mid to late in the season.
• Totem: A delicious truss bush variety with medium sized red fruit, perfect for pots.
• Truss: Truss tomatoes are sweet, juicy and easy to roast . They can be grown in-ground or in a large pot and need a stake to climb.

When you’re ready to plant, place your seedlings about 70cm apart. This may seem like a lot while they are this size, but any less and they’ll be crowded when they grow. Your plants will need support as they go, so put in a hardwood stake around 5cm from the plant, or try a tomato cage. Mulch the plants well, preferably with an organic mulch like Sugar Cane that will add nutrients back to the soil as it breaks down. Mulch should be applied 5cm thick with a 5cm gap around stems to prevent collar rot.
As the plant grows, choose two main stems and tie them to the stake at 30cm intervals as they grow. Once these two stems are established all other side shoots (laterals) should be pinched out to keep the plant tidy and manageable, as well as helping the plant concentrate on fruit production. Stems should be pinched off once a week as they can get wild very quickly!

To get the most out of your tomato plants, it’s best to keep them well fed. Use the Tomato and Vegie fertiliser that you added to the soil prior to planting to feed them once a month as per the pack instructions, commencing when your plants first start flowering.
If your plants seem to be fattening up with leaves instead of fruit, try adding potash to encourage flowers and fruit.

Tomatoes require lots of water and regularly. Drying out will drastically reduce their yield, and irregular watering leads to blossom rot – a sunken black patch on the bottom of your fruit. Water your plants weekly, and once fruit has developed try to water daily during very hot weather. Try to avoid overhead watering as this can encourage leaf blight and other fungal diseases.

Tomatoes are as popular with pests as they are with people, but it’s easy to protect your crop. Here are some pests and diseases to look out for.

• Caterpillars: Will eat holes in your leaves and green fruit. Pick off if it’s only a small problem or spray to protect your plants.
• Fruit Fly: Will lay eggs in your ripening fruit – ugh! Try Eco-Naturalure or hang fruit fly bait traps near your plants.
• Aphids: These rascals suck sap from foliage and spread plant disease. Check your plants for ants – ants are themselves harmless, but come to feed on the sticky residue left by aphids and white fly so are a sign of an aphid problem. Spray with Conquer, or try to encourage the aphids natural enemy to take up residence – the lady beetle.
• Tomato wilt: If this disease has set in all the leaves will wilt and the plant will appear very dry. What’s happening is the stem inside is dying and unfortunately the plant can’t be saved. This will happen if you don’t keep aphids under control so prevention is the best cure!
• Early blight: If you notice tomato leaf spots and yellowing lower leaves you may have tomato early blight. This disease causes damage to the leaves, stems and even the fruit of the plant. Treat with Yates Liquid Copper Fungicide.
• Blossom end rot – bottom of the tomato fruit will discolour and rot. This is a sign of calcium deficiency. You can try to add Dolomite at this stage but it’s likely to late.
• Companion Planting: For a completely organic approach, try planting basil and/or marigolds with your tomatoes – they can help to deter aphids, white fly and nematodes (a disease affecting roots).

You’ve successfully grown your first tomato, and now it’s time to enjoy it!
Pick your tomato when it is red-ripe. As pretty as they look, leaving your fruit on the vine too long will cause it to lose its sweetness and become floury.

Tell us about your experience in growing tomatoes! We’d love to hear from you.

A beginner’s guide to composting – by Flower Power

Again, the Flower Power Team produced one of their very detailed and helpful guides. This time Klaudyna Kyrosit gave insights about composting.

Composting is free and easy, it helps the planet, and best of all your plants will love you for it. Follow our simple seven-step guide to homemade compost success.

What is compost?

Food, plants, air and soil all contain microorganisms. When these elements come together in a heap, these nifty microorganisms spread and decompose the organic matter, thus creating compost. Compost is rich in nitrogen and other nutrients which plants need to thrive.

Why compost?

Compost improves soil fertility, water retention, friability and aeration – and that equals happy plants!

What can I throw into my compost heap?

At least a third of household garbage is food waste, so you don’t have to look far past your own kitchen for composting material.

• Fruit and vegetables (including peelings and skins)
• Tea leaves and coffee grounds
• Cereal products (no milk)
• Food scraps (no meat)
• Dead flower heads
• Grass cuttings (in large compost heaps only)
• Most weeds that do not have seed heads
• Softwood prunings
• Leaves

What to prepare before you begin

Choose an isolated area or a container to house your compost. This ensures your heap is tidy and more importantly, compact. This keeps heat and moisture in, which is key for good composting. A rot-proof enclosure or container is best – think brick, fibro, concrete or plastic. It’s also wise to pick a container that protects the heap from bugs and animals and will contain the smell.

Important!

Make sure your container is bottomless. Contact between the compost and the earth is essential. It encourages worms into your heap, which help break down waste and add their nutrient-rich poo to the mix.

Compost troubleshooting

My compost heap smells.

It may be too wet. This can be fixed by covering the heap before it rains, adding dry waste and/or frequent turning.

My compost heap looks dry.

Turn the heap over and sprinkle with water.

My compost heap has stopped breaking down.

There’s probably not enough nitrogen to keep the decomposing microorganisms going. Add high-nitrogen materials like grass clippings, animal manure or nitrogenous fertiliser. It could also be a lack of other nutrients needed by microorganisms, like phosphorous. Lightly sprinkle Blood and Bone or superphosphate to give the microorganisms a boost.

Did you know?

The temperature in a heap can rise to between 60 and 68 degrees Celsius in only a few days, as heat-loving organisms take control. It’s important for the heap to generate heat, as this is what kills off weed seeds.

Ready to start your compost? You’ll find all the tools and advice you need instore at Flower Power.